Room Planner
Set your room, drag in furniture at real sizes, place your lights, and watch the lighting map show you where it is bright and where it is dark. No sign up, nothing to install.
Tap to drop one in, or use auto fill to lay a grid for your target lux.
5.5m × 4.2m, 23.1 m². Drag to move.
Average
-
lux on the working plane
Lux scale
A planning sketch, not a certified lighting design. It works from the direct light of each fitting, then allows for what your walls absorb and for dust and ageing. Pale walls will read a little brighter than this, dark walls a little dimmer. Furniture is drawn for scale and is not treated as blocking light.
How to read the map
Blue
under 100 lux
Fine for a corridor or a hallway, too dim to read or work in. If your seating area is blue, you are short of light.
Green
150 to 300 lux
The comfortable band for living rooms, bedrooms and dining. Most homes should be sitting here.
Yellow to orange
400 lux and up
Working light. Kitchen worktops, desks, retail floors, factory work. Bright and useful, but it feels harsh in a bedroom.
The thing most people get wrong
They chase the average and ignore the gaps. A room can hit 200 lux on average and still look badly lit, because the light sits in pools under each fitting with dim patches between them. Watch the evenness figure as much as the average. If it drops below about 0.4, spread the fittings out or use more of a smaller size rather than fewer bright ones.
Common questions
What is a lighting map?▼
It is a colour map of how much light lands on each part of the floor. Blue areas are dim, green is comfortable for most living spaces, and yellow to orange is bright working light. It lets you see the dark corners before you buy anything, which is the part a shopping list of fittings can never show you.
How do I use it?▼
Set your room width, length and ceiling height at the top. Pick a light from the panel on the left and tap it to drop one in, or press auto to fill the room with a grid that hits your target lux. Then drag things around and watch the map change. Add furniture from the other tab so you can see the layout in real proportions.
Why does the map not care about my furniture?▼
Furniture is drawn to real sizes so you can judge the layout and spacing, but it is not treated as an obstruction in the calculation. In a normal room that is a fair simplification, since most furniture sits below the working plane. In a warehouse with tall racking it is not, and you should expect the aisles to read darker in reality than they do here.
How accurate is it?▼
It works out the direct light from each fitting using the inverse square and cosine laws, with a beam angle per fitting type, then allows for what the walls absorb and for dust and ageing over time. That puts it in line with the lumen method used in our Room Lux Calculator, so the two tools should broadly agree. Treat it as a good working estimate rather than a certified figure. Pale walls read brighter than this, dark walls dimmer.
What is evenness and why does it matter?▼
It compares the darkest spot to the average. A room can hit its average lux target and still feel badly lit if the light sits in pools with gaps between them. Anything below about 0.4 usually looks patchy. The fix is normally more fittings of a smaller size rather than fewer bright ones.
Can I use this to plan a real renovation?▼
Use it to plan and to sanity check a quotation before you commit. It will tell you quickly if a proposed layout is going to leave you short. For the final layout, especially anything commercial or industrial, send it to us and we will go through it with you. We do this every day and there are things a sketch does not catch.
Planned it out? Let us check it.
Send us a screenshot of your plan and what the room is for. We will tell you honestly whether it works, and what we would change.
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