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Room Planner

Set your room, drag in furniture at real sizes, place your lights, and watch the lighting map show you where it is bright and where it is dark. No sign up, nothing to install.

Bedroom

Living

Dining

Bathroom

Other

5.50m4.20m5.50m4.20m
Pick something on the left to drop it in, then drag it about.

23.1 m² · ceiling 2.8m

Average

-

lux on the working plane

Fittings0
Total load0 W
Per m²0.0 W/m²
Darkest, off walls-
Brightest-
Evenness-

Lux scale

02005001000+

A planning sketch, not a certified lighting design. It works from the direct light of each fitting, then allows for what the walls absorb and for dust and ageing. Tall furniture casts a shadow and its footprint is greyed out, since the top of a wardrobe is not floor you use. Low items like beds and coffee tables sit below the working plane, so they do not block.

How to read the map

Blue

under 100 lux

Fine for a corridor or a hallway, too dim to read or work in. If your seating area is blue, you are short of light.

Green

150 to 300 lux

The comfortable band for living rooms, bedrooms and dining. Most homes should be sitting here.

Yellow to orange

400 lux and up

Working light. Kitchen worktops, desks, retail floors, factory work. Bright and useful, but it feels harsh in a bedroom.

The thing most people get wrong

They chase the average and ignore the gaps. A room can hit 200 lux on average and still look badly lit, because the light sits in pools under each fitting with dim patches between them. Watch the evenness figure as much as the average. If it drops below about 0.4, spread the fittings out or use more of a smaller size rather than fewer bright ones.

Common questions

What is a lighting map?

It is a colour map of how much light lands on each part of the floor. Blue areas are dim, green is comfortable for most living spaces, and yellow to orange is bright working light. It lets you see the dark corners before you buy anything, which is the part a shopping list of fittings can never show you.

How do I use it?

Start with the shape. Draw walls lets you click corners out freehand on a metre grid, hold shift for straight runs, and click back on the first corner to close. Or take the rectangle or L shape preset and drag the corners, click a wall midpoint to add a corner, double click one to remove it. Then pick a fitting from the panel, it follows your pointer and drops where you click, or press auto to lay a grid that hits your target lux. Add furniture from the other tab so the layout reads in real proportions.

Does the map account for my furniture?

Yes, for anything tall enough to matter. A wardrobe, fridge, shower or storage rack stands above the 0.8m working plane, so it casts a shadow and the map dims behind it. Its own footprint is greyed out, because the top of a wardrobe is not floor you walk on and counting it would flatter the average. Low items like beds, sofas and coffee tables sit below the plane, so they are drawn for layout but do not block light.

How accurate is it?

It works out the direct light from each fitting using the inverse square and cosine laws, with a beam angle per fitting type, then allows for what the walls absorb and for dust and ageing over time. That puts it in line with the lumen method used in our Room Lux Calculator, so the two tools should broadly agree. Treat it as a good working estimate rather than a certified figure. Pale walls read brighter than this, dark walls dimmer.

What is evenness and why does it matter?

It compares the darkest spot to the average. A room can hit its average lux target and still feel badly lit if the light sits in pools with gaps between them. Anything below about 0.4 usually looks patchy. The fix is normally more fittings of a smaller size rather than fewer bright ones.

Where does auto placement put the lights?

It works out how many fittings the room needs for your target, lays them in an even grid, and then checks each position against your furniture. Anything that would land on top of a wardrobe, a rack or a fridge gets nudged to the nearest clear spot, because a downlight over a wardrobe lights the top of the wardrobe and nothing else. If there is no clear spot nearby it drops that fitting rather than waste it.

Can I use this to plan a real renovation?

Use it to plan and to sanity check a quotation before you commit. It will tell you quickly if a proposed layout is going to leave you short. For the final layout, especially anything commercial or industrial, send it to us and we will go through it with you. We do this every day and there are things a sketch does not catch.

Planned it out? Let us check it.

Send us a screenshot of your plan and what the room is for. We will tell you honestly whether it works, and what we would change.